Tuesday 10 May 2016

Walmer Castle: Kent, England

Number 38 - Walmer castle


Walmer castle was a real treat. It was the final castle on our day trip, having already covered Chilham and Deal


Walmer was literally about 4 minutes by car from Deal castle, but despite their close proximity, I thought they were very different. 


We went up the drive and parked in a large adjacent field with sheep to one side roaming around. We headed into the castle, and even on the walk to the entrance you could tell it was something special. 

 


You go through the gatehouse to a small internal waiting bit, which had a cannon inside. 
Then you're outside again in a narrow external corridor with high stone walls either side. There was a lovely arrangement of plants you could buy here, and a tea room off to the right. 




Walmer Castle was built in 1539 to 40. It was one of a group of coastal artillery forts which started being built by order of Henry III. He was worried about Spain invading. Despite all this preparation, the castle on saw battle once in it’s lifetime…. so far!

We walked round until we reached a door signposted house and gardens, upon opening it we were straight into the house, which was lovely. It was fully furnished (just how I like it) with furniture, paintings and nic nacs, many of which looked original. 

 

The downstairs has lots of rooms, including a study and library. There was an amazing cherry red rug which I took quite a shine too.



Walmer has quite a homely feel to it, and we discovered why. Originally, in the early 1700s it was the official residence of the Lords Warden of the Cinque Ports, which was basically the person in charge of five ports covering East Sussex and Kent. These ports included Hastings, Romney, Hythe, Sandwich and Dover. They were joined together to provide ships and men to protect the coast and trade that came via the sea. The lord Warden who managed all the ports lived at Dover Castle, but over time the Cinque Ports alliance became less important. By the early 18th century the Lord Warden wasn't really needed for battle anymore, so they moved him from living at Dover to Walmer. When this happened, Walmer was adapted to be more homely and less ‘battle-ly’.


We climbed the big old wooden staircase to discover a dark turquoise corridor with a red rug  - again, right up my street. 



The corridor had rooms going off it on both sides, a beautiful bedroom, wash room.



 

Many of the rooms were filled with memorabilia - paintings, scripts, coins and guns. 




In one room there was a little outfit you could try on to resemble Duke of Wellington, we shoved it on Sebastian and he loved it. 



The Duke of Wellington spent 23 years at Walmer castle, so he must have loved it. And there was one room dedicated to him with lots of interesting facts.

We made our way round the rooms and up the corridor, in one of the rooms I found a door that opened up onto what I'll call a roof terrace, but it was very spacious and went right round the building. 


There were canons, telescopes and lots of canvas foldable chairs so you could sit and admire the surroundings. 


The view from this part of the castle was over the nearby sea, but unlike Deal, it's easy to forget at Walmer that the sea is that close, it feels like you're very cut off and in the middle of the countryside- which was lovely. 



Though the castle is enormous, it's also quite low down, which was deliberate as it meant it was tricky for enemies to attack it from the sea.

From the rooftops we could see over into some of the gardens which looked amazing, so we decided to go back through the house and out, so we could explore.


In nice weather Walmer could really take up a full day, but we are on a mission so had to squeeze it in to a few hours. The gardens and grounds are huge and they're segmented off into lots of different bits, so it's very interesting to walk round and visually quite striking. 

We started off investigating the pond (sounds very unglamorous but in reality was very chic) that we'd seen from the roof of the castle. It's a long rectangular pond with lily pads, surrounded by stone urns, tulips, benches, a sheltered area and a mound at the end with sculpture on it. 



On the day we visited there was an insane amount of tadpoles in the pond, but no frogs...Odd! If all the tadpoles turn into frogs don't visit Walmer for a while as it will be run by frogs, and humans will not be welcome. Sebastian was quite mesmerised and spent a long time looking at his reflection, and the tadpoles. 


We then walked round the back to a wooded walk which led to ashamed area with lots of bluebells. 


Very different to the stylised section we'd just seen. Then out of the wood and down by a patch of bright red tulips and a sundial- Chloe loves these. 




Straight ahead was a long straight gravel path, with sculpted hedges either side and flowers to decorate the borders. 



Me and Chloe couldn't decide what the hedges were meant to be, an abstract pattern? Lions heads? Answers on a postcard please. 





The thing I really liked is that all these elements of the gardens were really different. Some symmetrical and stylised, others natural and meandering. Someone has given it a lot of thought, and it's paid off.


We then came across a large kitchen garden which also had flowers scattered amongst the fruit and veg. 





Some tiny apple trees and apple climbing plants, bean tripods and I'm sure other vegetables underground. 




Next to the kitchen garden/ vegetable patch were some green houses with things like succulents, cacti, tropical plants and flowers. Very striking. 




We walked round the back of the kitchen garden and down a wooden ramp next to the kitchen garden which lead to a pathway at the bottom of the castle building, we assume where the moat would once have been. 



Now it's a beautiful secret garden with wild and wispy bushes and flowers. 



From this level you can really see how imposing the castle is as a building, because inside it felt quite cosy.






We were pretty lucky with the weather. The other castles had been explored in rain and drizzle, but the sun came out just long enough at Walmer to get round the stunning gardens. 


Cost: It's free if you're an English Heritage member or £11.20 for paying adults. However if you travel by train, like we did, see if your train company does a 2 for 1 voucher and then you can often get in for a better price.

Hints and tips: It's We're within spitting (though I firmly disagree with spitting on every level) distance of Dover and Deal, so it would be a good idea to combine Walmer with a trip to Deal and Dover if you can.
 Try out pretending you're the Duke of Wellington by trying on his hat for size and standing in front of the mirror that makes it looks like you're wearing his boots! Walmer had lots of toilets scattered around, which after a long train journey and day of castles, was very handy.

Turret score: Turrets in excellent condition here, and I was able to get quite close on the outside upper ledge, I'd give them a 9 out of 10.


Want to know why we visited Walmer castle? Check out my first blog.